NEW ORLEANS FEATURES - Popular Sushi Spots

Raw Deals - Popular Sushi Spots

There used to be a rule of thumb that one should never eat raw oysters in months without an "R" in the name. That meant May through August. That's also more superstition than necessity now that refrigerated trucks deliver the oysters from the bayous to New Orleans. But if you can't go for raw oysters, there's always raw fish. A cool slab of ruby red tuna or orange salmon isn't everyone's cup of tea but Japanese cuisine is great for summer. Since it doesn't use cream or cheese it's already on the lighter side. While New Orleans doesn't have a particularly large Japanese community, there are sushi restaurants in most neighborhoods. It only makes sense in a city so addicted to seafood.

Samurai (239 Decatur St., 504-525-9595) One of the city's more senior sushi spots is run by Atsushi and Shinobu Morishita. Atsushi learned his sushi cutting skills in Japan and keeps it simple by following the two main rules: use the freshest fish and the sharpest knife. Samurai has a small dining room and sushi bar. Sushi and sashimi, or slices of fish not mounted on vinegar rice, are the mainstays. For the rolls favored by American diners, he has a special Crunchy Dynamite Roll and a Spicy Tuna Roll. For desserts, Atsushi gets creative with banana and pineapple tempura.

Rock ‘N Sake (823 Fulton St., 504-581-7253) Nestled in the Warehouse District near the Convention Center, Rock ‘N Sake combines a sleek bistro look with Asian elements. The music and décor are much more rock ‘n roll than tuna roll but the menu sticks to Japanese cuisine. The long sushi bar can accommodate many diners. From the kitchen there are dishes of tempura fried vegetables and shrimp, noodle soups like udon, with thick noodles, and there are meat dishes like chicken teriyaki.

Wasabi (900 Frenchmen St., 504-943-9433) The growing scene of clubs and restaurants along Frenchmen Street finally has its sushi restaurant. Named for the green horseradish served with sushi, Wasabi occupies an unassuming corner spot. The bar has a neighborhood feel but runs somewhat seemlessly into the sushi bar in the dining room. Chef Phat Nguy offers standard and creative sushi pieces and rolls. The Frenchmen Roll bundles eel, salmon and vegetables. The kitchen offers everything from meat dumplings like shumai and gyoza to ginger ice cream for dessert.

Sake Café (2830 Magazine St., 504-894-0033) Just on the edge of the Garden District, Sake Café joins the uptown sushi scene. While considerably more spacious than most restaurants you'll find in Japan, Sake Café is very traditional in the attention to detail and the array of specialized and stylized plates that arrive with sushi and appetizers. Both the sushi and cooked-item menus offer extensive choices. Some of the fancier options include tempura fried lobster tails.